In China, the cosmetic ingredients are regulated by National Medical Products Administration (NMPA) on the basis of Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients in China (IECIC, current version 2015; new draft 2021 is now under public consultation). The IECIC has listed all ingredients allowed to be used in cosmetics put on Chinese market. In addition to IECIC, there are also some positive ingredient lists for the special-use, such as hair dyes, colorants, UV filters and preservatives, in the Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics (current version 2015).
Otherwise, the ingredient is defined as new ingredient. Any new cosmetic ingredient should obtain the approval of NMPA prior to the first use in cosmetic products for commercial purpose. Here according to CSAR 2020, new cometic ingredient can be divided into two groups:
- Group 1: ingredients with low risk concern, such as emollient, skin conditioner
- Group 2: ingredients with high risk concern, such as UV filter, whitening agent
Group 1 follows new cosmetic ingredient filing procedures while group 2 follows the registration process.
Therefore, if there is any new ingredient in your product, you have to apply for ingredient approval before product registration. However, it’s very time and cost consuming, so only big ingredients suppliers are willing to and have to fulfil it.